New Park Pizza

New Park Pizza
156-71 Crossbay Blvd.
Howard Beach, NY 11414
718-641-3082
Hours: 10 a.m. to 12 a.m. - 7 days a week

I grew up in Queens. When asked about it, I often use Aqueduct Racetrack as a landmark, which is true, for its dilapidated overhangs were clearly visible from our house as well as the dilapidated gamblers who passed the front of the house on the way to the bus. I have some vivid food memories from my times in Queens. Ho Wan Restaurant under the el on Liberty Avenue served the best version of fried rice - a version that would be the "meter stick" for all others because of its deep, brown color. It was actually "fried' and not Goya yellow rice. Another restaurant further west on Liberty Avenue served a baked ravioli, with golden brown mozzarella covering each luxurious pillow of ravioli (the name eludes me - I know it was "something 's" and was more like a bar). Smile of the Beyond, a vegetarian restaurant on Parsons Boulevard, served some of the best "fake" American classics and some the best juices (try the carrot), all served by followers of Sri Chinmoy. Add to this list New Park Pizza, whose intricate flavors were puzzling to my young palate at the time. However, as I visited as an adult, I realized the genius here.

Living in the midst of the South Shore of Nassau County, pizzerias and Italian restaurants exist every other storefront. Ironically, all of the food blows! Since there is such a large population of Italian people on the South Shore of the Island, it is funny to me that: a) they go "out" for Italian food often and b) they think it's good. You can take your $13.95 bowl of Penne ala Vodka and blow it out your ditty-bag (Thanks Grandpa!)! I have grown up with too many fabulous cooks in my family to pay for generic Italian-American fare. But I digress from the pizza...Jess and I moved out here two years ago and the only place we liked closed down (La Bella Pizza). I had some friends over during a Ranger game who were hungry and I called them...No answer for an hour...The next day I passed by to see an eviction notice from the County Sheriff. But my brief love affair with their Sicilian pie led me to an epiphany - most places have a generic sauce that they use for pasta and pizza.

Digging through old photos for our wedding led me to a photo of myself and my little league team (circa 1990) enjoying slices after a "World Series" win for Team Sapienza Meats! Back then, I enjoyed the pizza as much as a Big Mac after a good report card. My family and I moved out to Long Island for a few years before I had my license and I lost touch with the pizzeria. However, for a brief few college years with my buddies Murm and Phil, we ventured every year into Howard Beach on December 23rd, listening to the Deftones' "White Pony," At The Drive In's song, "One Armed Scissor," and various Soundgarden, Alice In Chains, Tripface, Indecision, Murphy's Law, and Rorschach songs, and other metal/hardcore hits in a 1986 Buick Century, a 1988 Buick Regal, or a 1990 Ford Taurus (see picture to the right for a glimpse of two of these beautiful cars after they were "decommissioned"). We were the three stallions - some others joined us - sometimes only two of us - but the spirit remained. We were on a quest for last-minute Christmas gifts or at least to buy a new hockey stick at Sports Depot. Menthol cigarettes were abound as well as tins of Skoal Cherry - we were the Tobacco Generation. Plus, it was balm for the massive hangovers that we all had since we were off after finals. A smoky windshield dimmed a crisp winter sky (we used to wake up at 3 p.m. during winter break). A trip to the stores on Crossbay Boulevard were prefaced by a stop at New Park Pizza. It was a right of passage for those who had never had it (Murm and I grew up in Queens).

New Pizza Pizza is a small brick building on the corner with a "patio" of sorts for more seating. But do not be afraid of the appearance - the flavors here are incredible. The neon pie above is like the North star for weary pizza travelers. There is no lack of "specialty slices" on Long Island. New Park focuses on the classics. No Buffalo Chicken slices...no ziti slices...no Chicken Francaise slice. Go ahead and order one of these. We always joked that you will get a regular slice and a regular Coke anyway. New Park has the classic toppings for slices (pepperoni, mushroom, peppers, a white slice, etc.) and some other classic pizzeria fare (never had a menu so I am not sure what else is offered - I know I have had a calzone in the past) but most people opt for the original, either Neopolitan or Sicilian. Order two regular slices and do not even bother with the garlic powder and hot pepper flakes. Sit on an ancient wooden bench and examine your slices. Rugged pieces of mozzarella (not Polly-O) are layered on a bed of rose-colored sauce and seemingly charred crust. Take the first bite and get pissed off at yourself for living a life filled with mediocre slices that attempted to hide the mundane with autographed pictures of Frank Sinatra and James Gandolfini. Sweet and salty cheese is married with a succulent sauce that is made specifically for pizza. Yes, damn it! There is a such thing as a "pizza sauce" versus a "marinara sauce." Its not a "one size fits all" kind of thing. Its complexity lies in its simplicity. A charred crust beckons a sense of being overcooked but a smoky flavor intermingles with a crust that is crispy and chewy. Its an experience to be had by all.

And screw all the haters. I have read many reviews by Brooklyn and NYC "foodies" who tout these "$5 a slice" places as being superior, bad-mouthing New Park and that's terrific. And guess what? A) I do not want to spend the gas money nor food money to pay $5 for a slice of pizza B) I hate elitists who, unless they have eaten every damn pizza here and in Italy, pass intense judgment about places with such "gusto." Take your $5 slice, your "Ohh, its $1 Pabst Blue Ribbon Night - Let's Slum It!," and your "Let's follow the Twitter food trucks" and shove it. There are some people who do not have the opportunity to, do not have the money to, or couldn't give a *&^% about fad places. I apologize for the soapbox rhetoric but it angers me that people consider themselves the authority on food and beer based solely upon the trendy places they read about in the dining section of the New York Times. I try to give an honest review from the perspective of the "common man" (or woman), highlighting positives and negatives, giving you, the reader, my honest opinion. My honest opinion here is that this is one of the best pizzerias that I have had the pleasure of enjoying a slice from. There may be better slices somewhere but I have not found them yet and do not think that I will.

New Park has been here for over 50 years. There is beauty in nostalgia, greatness is nostalgia, better-than-your-pizzeria nostalgia. I have eaten a lot of pizza in my day. I have even threatened a pizzeria tour with my friend Murm one summer, with the idea of hitting a different pizzeria each day. I can honestly say that I have not yet had pizza that is better than the one at New Park. It is worth the drive here. And if you live in Queens or Nassau County and you have not been here, it should be a rite of passage. I have heard many stories from my friends who have made the trip hear after hearing about the greatness. Jess and I recently made the pilgrimage here, calling from the Belt Parkway (call right when you hit the part where the highway to head to JFK passes overhead), for two pies "well-done" (you'll get that charred crust). We picked them up and returned to Long Island to watch the Ranger game with my parents. They had not had New Park since we had moved to Long Island in 1994. I cannot put to words their expressions after their first bites into the slices. It is more than a slice - its an experience.
Notes:

- It was $32 dollars for two regular pies - a steal for this type of quality. The slices are quite filling as well.
- New Park can get quite crowded at all times of the day, a testament to its popularity. The service is extremely quick though. I have heard that many people order a pie right at the counter and will receive it not much later.
- Do yourself a favor this holiday season - stop at New Park, have a few slices, and then cruise around the beautiful neighborhood of Howard Beach checking out the fantastic Christmas light displays. Talk about frugal...It does not take more than a few dollars in gas for a most excellent night. It has been a become a tradition of ours (with the addition of a cup of coffee).
- Follow New Park on Facebook as well as a website that is currently under construction.
- I know it's not technically in Long Island but I wish it was. It is not far from the Nassau/Queens border.
- All pictures seen here taken by Jess (except the cars - that's in my archive!)